The McCalls 7969 loose fitting pullover dress is the first garment I completed for my Make it for Mexico Challenge: sew 6 dresses and 1 top in 24 days for a trip to Merida, MX for the Dia de los Muertos celebrations.
Merida is a beautiful Spanish colonial capital city of the Yucatan. When I considered how I might augment my wardrobe for this trip, I immediately imagined dresses! Lightweight, soft and flowy dresses would be the most perfectly comfortable and appropriate garb for certain 🙂
The fact that I didn’t really have such things hanging in my closet did not dissuade me. Neither did the fact that I only started thinking about this travel wardrobe toward the end of September. I know it will be a challenge for me – a notoriously persnickety and slow-pokey sewist – to make so many garments in 25 days… but what the heck. I’m a Makeling, and Makelings tend to have a “can do!” attitude.
I have selected seven different patterns, for six dresses and one top. The plan is to review each garment as I complete it, and eventually cap off each review with a pics of me wearing the clothes in action in Mexico. I begin today with McCalls 7969 review.
Why McCalls 7969?
The loose fit and balloon sleeve fit my brief, and I felt the McCalls 7969 was a style that would eliminate the need for a time-consuming muslin. I chose to sew a lengthened version of View A with balloon sleeves in size Large.
Fabric Choice
I had this lovely yarn-dyed 100% silk in my stash for a while. Picked up this silk fabric at Textile Discount Outlet for a song, and it’s been sitting on the shelf waiting for just the right project. Almost noil-like in feel and weight, the fabric has a subtle golden sheen. The large scale checks and the warm/cool color combination really appeals to me.
Changes made to the pattern
- I did a 1.5″ full bust adjustment to the bodice to add some side darts
- I also shortened the sleeves by 2″
- I added 6 ” to the length to make the dress a midi length
- Using the slash and spread method I added fullness to both front and back skirt pieces, adding a total of 6″ to each piece.
- After fitting I pinched in two waist darts right beneath the bust apex to tighten up the fit of the empire waistline.
- I added an invisible tack where the faux wrap bodice pieces crossover. Just felt like it was needed to keep the neckline in line.
Construction details
- Though I originally thought to trim the neckline and cuffs in a gold pongee bias tape I had on hand, it turns out there was enough silk check to cut trim pieces on the bias. The bias-cut check made for a more interesting finish and better suited the casual vibe of the dress.
- I’m all about durable construction, and I used faux flat felled seams throughout. I used 1/2″ stay tape at the neckline in lieu of stay stitiching.
- Thoughtful pattern placement – I matched the checks as best I could along the skirt side seams. I centered the check on the back bodice, and lined up the checks across the front bodice.
Dress #1 Results
As per usual, the dress fits me better than it does the dress form. (I think I need a better dress form) It feels nice on – very comfortable. I wish I had enough fabric to cut the skirt pieces on the crossgrain and get the striping to go vertical, but in the end, I think McCalls 7969 is a success, and a great kick-off to the Make it for Mexico Challenge.
Next up: Dress #2, Vogue 1937
Great dress. I particularly like the binding. This pattern is in my queue so I’d welcome your view on the sizing.
Good luck with your make!