Gosh! I’ve been off the blog for far too long! What with welcoming a new grandson into the family (Hugo!), springtime trips to Spain and Canada, and getting my gardens in order… the days are simply whizzing by! Finally, I found time to hop back on the ol’ blog to show off this soft tailored blazer I made for myself.
In getting ready to travel to Spain for the Las Fallas Festival in March, I wanted to add a new piece to my carry-on wardrobe. I needed a very practical travel item – a classic blazer. Because daily temperatures can vary between 55°–80°F (14°–26°C), layering pieces are necessary. A wool blazer would have me both warm and well turned out for cooler weather activities like early morning trips to the bakery, or aperitivo drinks at an outdoor cafe, or an after-dinner passeggiata stroll. A soft tailored blazer was just the ticket!
Though I make most of my clothes these days, I will admit, at first I didn’t even consider making this blazer. Traditional tailoring seemed beyond my skillset. Knuckling under to this defeatist thinking, I began to online shop for a ready-to-wear blazer. Low and behold, a good quality wool blazer like I wanted is expensive! To add to that, I am never, ever happy with the fit of RTW. And, of course, I couldn’t find a RTW blazer that was even close to what I envisioned. All reasons why I began sewing my own clothes in the first place.
Then I did some research on tailoring techniques and learned about soft tailoring. I was intrigued. This sewing method was definitely in my wheelhouse, and now, for all of the right reasons, I was compelled to make my own soft tailored blazer.
A Standard Tailored Blazer vs a Soft Tailored Blazer
Traditional tailoring is a sewing process that includes multiple interior layers — complex combinations of wadding, padding, canvas and stitching — to give a garment a very structured form.
Soft tailoring strips away much of this interior structure, leaving the outer shell of the garment to basically stand on its own. This results in a blazer that has a tailored feel, but is softer in look. I am a self-taught sewist, and I realized My Streamlined Trench is soft tailored. I could do this, and I was raring to get started.
It Begins With the Vision
When sewing for myself, I’m all about the purpose. This soft tailored blazer needed to be versatile member of my travel wardrobe. I wanted a blazer that would travel and wear relatively wrinkle free. One that would work as well over a blouse and trousers as it would with a tee and jeans. In addition, this blazer needed to accommodate an added layer, like a cardigan or a crew neck sweater. I wanted at least two very functional pockets that were large enough to hold a big iphone without appearing lumpy. It became apparent as I investigated many blazer sewing patterns online, the jacket I was imagining happened to be very much on trend!
Form Follows Function
I settled on The Assembly Line J:507 Blazer for these features:
- the design uses soft tailoring techniques
- the oversized boxy style can be worn over multiple layers
- I always prefer a two-piece sleeve construction that wears and fits better
- the faux pocket flaps with large in-seam side pockets are a bit of genius
- the notched collar, mock buttoned sleeve vents, faux pocket flaps and single button closure are very tailored looking
- the side vents, vertical waist darts and the seamless back is neat and modern
- the optional sleeve lining would make the jacket easier to slip on and off
- the optional sewn in shoulder pads added a nice lift at the shoulders
Finding the Perfect Fabric
A good quality wool is practically wrinkle free – great for travel – and one of the main reasons I settled on using wool suiting for this blazer project. Color-wise, I needed to be in the black/gray/navy realm to coordinate with my existing travel wardrobe. From the get-go I decided to keep things simple and avoid stripes and plaids. But I did want a little texture… perhaps something tweedy, but not overly wooly…
I headed out to my favorite Chicago fabric haunts. Textile Discount Outlet came through this time with this absolutely gorgeous 100% worsted wool micro-check. Luscious and smooth, this high-quality wool suiting is perfect in weight, pattern and color. At only $15 per 62″W yard, I couldn’t go wrong. For the sleeve lining, I found a high quality bemberg jacquard at New Rainbow Fabric. I used the same bemberg to make matching bias tape binding for finishing off facings, hems and pockets. Classic blazer!
Finessing the Fit
One thing I knew, I did not want to appear as if I were wearing my husband’s suit jacket. I wanted the square roominess of the oversize style, with the shoulder width and sleeve length proportionate to my short frame and arms. The fit would need finessing and so I took the time to make a muslin test garment.
I cut out a straight size Large from of an old tablecloth and machine basted together a quick muslin. So worth the effort! Though I found the fit through the shoulders good, and I liked the overall length, the blazer still needed some tweaking. As always, the sleeves needed shortening. The bigger issue, though, and one I was afraid of, the jacket pulled across the chest and buckled the lapels when the blazer was buttoned.
To correct this problem, I added a bit more fabric across the chest with 1″ FBA (full bust adjustment) to the front pieces. The FBA did the trick! My second muslin fit perfect with nice flat lapels buttoned and unbuttoned. Now with fit finessed, it was time to cut.
Slow and Steady
Because I had corrected the fit issues in the muslin phase, I was very confident cutting into my lovely wool. I used the rotary cutting method, and tracing paper/wheel/chalk to transfer all of the marks to the fabric. To ensure my accurate markings did not fade away during the sewing process (as they are prone to do), I thread traced the markings with yellow Japanese basting thread.
TIP: It’s easy to confuse thread traced marks with temporary hand basting. To avoid removing essential marks by mistake, I use yellow basting thread for marking, and blue basting thread for actual hand basting.
Putting It All Together
The Assembly Line (TAL) is a favored indie pattern designer I have used in the past with much success. Their patterns have a minimalist design sensibility that appeals to me. I find TAL patterns to be expertly drafted with clear, well illustrated instructions.
That said, on this particular pattern, I struggled to get the gist of some instructions as written. I also found some illustrations to be confusing. The great thing about dealing with an indie pattern designer is the ability to contact them with questions. Because TAL was super responsive, I quickly gained clarity on the construction aspects I was struggling with.
Pressing Matters
Careful pressing while sewing is the key to achieving professional results. Having the right pressing tools in your sewing arsenal is important. I used all of my pressing tools to cajole and shape the wool suiting into smooth curves, crisp points and flat laying darts and seams.
TIP: Keep a spray bottle with a 50/50 distilled white vinegar/water solution on hand in your pressing area. A light spray followed with a hot steam press will smooth away any unwanted wrinkles or creases from your natural fiber fabrics.
Finishing Touches
I always strive for my garments to be durable and attractive on the inside. The TAL pattern offers several options on finishing the garment. I chose the following:
- lined sleeves
- bias bound facings
- bias bound and hand-stitched hems
- sewn-in shoulder pads
Though not included in the instructions, I bias bound the edges of the pocket bags for added durability. I also opted to invisibly hand-tack down the faux pocket flaps rather than bar tack. For better control, I always take the time to hand baste in the tricky elements – like collars and sleeves – to ensure perfect, pucker-free insertion on the first attempt. I’d rather spend time hand basting than unpicking 😉
On Etsy, I found a beautiful matching set of substantial etched black buffalo horn buttons for the sleeve cuffs and the single button closure. Very fitting for the look I was trying to achieve.
Happy and Proud
This soft tailored blazer came out of my carry-on bag without a wrinkle. Lightweight and warm, I wore it practically every day on our trips to Spain and Canada. I continue to wear it in my non-travel life here at home as well. Wearing my me-made blazer, I feel very polished and kind of powerful.
Often, when I make a thing, the end result doesn’t quite meet my vision. Not necessarily bad, but I see little things that could have been improved on. Sometimes, in hindsight, I wish I had chosen a different pattern or better fabric. This self-critique comes with the territory of being a Makeling and is how I improve with each and every project.
But once in a while, once I’ve completely finished a garment and put it on, tears will spring to my eyes. Good tears. Those “I can’t believe I made this!” kind of tears.
This blazer made me cry 🙂
Materials and Sources
The Assembly Line Blazer – paper pattern @ $27
Micro-check wool suiting from Textile Discount Outlet– 3 yards @ $15 per yard = $45
Black paisley bemberg lining from New Rainbow Fabrics – 2 yards @ $8 = $16
Black soft weft fusible interfacing from Emma One Sock – 1/2 yard @ $3
Japanese cotton basting thread – easy to find on Etsy
Small shoulder pads from Bias Bespoke – $3/per pair
30mm and 17mm etched buffalo horn buttons from Etsy – $20
Total material outlay: $114
What a terrific blazer. I am so impressed that soft tailoring techniques can produce that result. And your skills, of course. Thanks for sharing your careful planning and meticulous approach. It’s so good to have bloggers who show the process, not just the results.
Now to find me some Japanese basting thread in UK.
I actually buy mine from an Etsy seller. I think you will have luck finding Japanese basteing thread there.